In early April, the US administration announced unprecedented tariff increases on imports, thereby also launching an unprecedented worldwide discussion about tariffs and trade. The tariffs were presented as being applied to countries and much of the ensuing media coverage, specialist analysis and armchair commentary also focused on countries. But what about the people within the countries who depend on exports for their livelihoods?

Lesotho (50%), Cambodia (49%), Laos (48%), Madagascar (47%) and Vietnam (46%) top of the list of those facing the highest tariffs for their exports into the US. This could equally be a list of the countries where women workers are the most exposed to trade shocks – whether from increased tariffs or from the general uncertainty which prevails even as the initially-announced tariffs have been put on hold.

Women’s work in the most affected countries

The sector most exposed to trade shocks is textiles and garments, a typically female-intensive industry. Working conditions tend to be poor and women’s wages are generally low. The profile of women in the sector in Cambodia, Lesotho and Vietnam is similar to that in other textile-exporting countries.

Cambodia

The textile and garment industry, which includes footwear and travel goods, accounted for 57% of Cambodia’s total exports, valued at $22.5 billion in 2022. The US is the Kingdom’s largest export destination. The textile and garment industry’s 600’000 jobs makes it the country’s largest formal employer. Women – mostly aged under 30 – represent 80% of the workforce in the sector. There is a gender wage gap, with women earning less, being over-represented in lower status and lower skill roles. Working conditions are often poor. In recent years employers are increasingly offering short-term contracts, and are outsourcing production to smaller, informal enterprises. Nearly 20% of Cambodia’s population lives below the poverty line.

Lesotho

Textiles, garments and footwear are the main exports to the US from Lesotho – about three quarters of Lesotho’s production is destined for the US. Lesotho’s textiles, garments and footwear industry accounts for about 20% of its GDP and is the largest private employer in the country, employing 30,000 people, the vast majority of them women. Wages in the textile and apparel sectors are low, and women face gender equality deficits and regularly report sexual assault and harassment. A dozen factories now supply the American market, producing for brands like Levi’s, Wrangler or Gap. Nearly 50% of Lesotho’s population live below the poverty line.

Vietnam

Approximately 16% of Vietnam’s GDP is attributable to textile and garment exports. The US is the largest market representing over 40% of the country’s total textile and garment exports, accounting for a revenue of around USD $11 billion in 2023. Vietnam is a manufacturing hub for many companies that sell goods in the US such as Nike, Adidas or Uniqlo. The sector employs some 2.5 million women, accounting for 74.8 percent of the industry workforce.  The gender wage gap stood at 9.3 per cent in 2023, and is mainly explained by the fact that female workers often engage in lower-skilled tasks and work less overtime due to gender-related responsibilities. Safety risks and job insecurity persist, with the share of female employees on temporary contracts standing at 77.5% in 2023. Less than 4% of the Vietnamese population lives under the poverty line.

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Other analysis of the links between gender equality and trade is here and here.